“BLAGOEVGRAD, BULGARIA — Back in late 1991, when things seemed very dark in the Balkans, I came to this nondescript town of 70,000 or so at the foot of the Rila and Pirin mountains, and found something rare, and inspiring.

At the time, Serbs and Croats were dying by the scores — for their leaders’ delusions — in the ruins of the city of Vukovar. Journalists, diplomats and many Yugoslavs (as they then were) could just feel that the war was going to move on, soon, to Bosnia, and that it would be terrible.

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New York Times: Letter From the Balkans – On a Campus in Bulgaria, Every Reason for Optimism